Have you been working on the body of your hat? I have, and thought of a few things I should tell you. If your stitches feel tight on your needles, that's okay. As you go along, your stitches will get looser, so don't worry about that. Also, in the pattern, it says to do a specific number of rounds, but in the earflap hat pattern from Julie (http://heyjulie.wordpress.com/2007/03/20/babykids-earflap-hat/), she says to knit the body of the hat until it is 3.5 inches from the cast on edge, so I did that rather than the specified 25 rounds, and I had to do a few less rounds in order to get my length. Now I'm ready to start in on my green yarn to make the leaves. Here's a picture of the body of the hat:
Once the body is the length that you want, we'll start adding the green yarn. Where the pattern says "Leaves" is where we start. You'll add in the green at the beginning of the round, and just leave the tail hanging to the inside of the hat. Knit 1 stitch with the green yarn, carry the red yarn behind the green, and knit 7 stitches red. Repeat this combination of 8 stitches until you reach the first green stitch again. Then, start round 27 by knitting 3 stitches in green, and knitting 5 stitches with the red yarn. Carry the yarn you are not using behind the stitches on the inside of the hat. Here is a picture of what my hat looks like after finishing out the body of the hat.
And here is a picture of the inside, where I carried the yarn I wasn't using across the back of the other stitches I was knitting:
That's it for the hat body. As always, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! Next time we'll do the decreases for the top. Hope to see you then!
I hope your earflaps turned out well, and now it is time to start the body of our hat! To start, you need to learn to do the cable cast on (video here), if you don't already know how to do so. A tip for this cast on: don't pull the stitches tight after transferring each one from the right needle to the left needle. You need to try to keep this cast on loose in order to make it easier on yourself.
Cast on 10 stitches using the cable cast on. If you are using double pointed needles, I would suggest trying to get as many stitches on the needles as possible, and then moving them around to space them out afterward. For example, I wanted 24 stitches in between the earflaps to be on my middle needle, and the earflaps to be on the other two needles, along with the rest of the stitches. I cast on as many stitches as would fit onto the first needle, then moved some over, and then I continued to cast on. It can be pretty difficult to try to cast on stitches over the gap created by two different needles, so we'll try to make it easier on ourselves. Once you've cast on your first 10 stitches, you are going to knit the first earflap right on after your 10 stitches. Here is a video that Julie posted on how to do this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJ0i6XWFwa8
After you've knit the first earflap on, cast on 26 more stitches. Then, knit the second earflap on. Finish by casting on 10 more stitches. Now, you can join your round. To join, just start knitting into the first stitch that you cast on. Once you knit the stitch, pull the tail tightly to make sure there isn't going to be a huge gap. Note: for the first few rounds, there will be a gap, but just do your best to tighten the stitch joining the last and first stitches, and we'll be able to close that gap at the end. Make sure that your stitches aren't twisted! If you look at all of your needles, the cast on edge should be closest to the floor when you hold your needles parallel to the floor. If this edge comes up and over one needle in any spot, it means that you twisted your stitches, and you will end up with a fabric that you definitely don't want for this project. If you are knitting on double point needles, you will want to make sure that you also tighten the first stitch that you knit off of every needle, just like you did the first stitch. Gaps can form between your double point needles, and pulling the first stitch on every needle tight will decrease your chances of "ladders," or spaces between each stitch that run all the way up the fabric.
Once you've joined your cast on round, you can start knitting! In the pattern that I gave to you, I made a mistake on Round 1. It should read as follows:
Round 1: k9, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k25, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k10.
All this row is going to do is close up the gaps that formed around the earflaps when you knit them into the cast on row. You can skip reading this row, and just do Round 1 as follows if you feel comfortable doing so:
Round 1: Knit to one stitch before the first gap on earflap one. Knit two stitches together to close the gap. Knit to one stitch before the second gap on earflap one, knit two together to close the gap. Knit until one stitch before the first gap on earflap two. Knit two together to close the gap. Knit until one stitch before the second gap on earflap two. Knit two together to close the gap. Knit until the end of the round.
Once you finish your first round, it's just straight knitting until you want to start making the hat smaller to fit the top of the recipient's head. Here is a picture of my hat after I finished Round 1:
It's looking a little weird right now, but once I get some more rounds done for the body it will actually look like a hat! :) When knitting the body, the pattern specifies knitting for 25 rounds. Julie's pattern says to knit for about 3.25 inches from the cast on edge. If you are able to measure the intended recipient's head from how far down they want the hat to go on their head (whether or not they want it to cover their ears, etc) to where their head starts sloping in at the top, you'll know how long to knit your hat body. For adult hats, it can be from 4.5 inches upward, usually, and some adults have smaller heads. You can guess as well, because if you did the earflaps, the hat itself doesn't have to go down over their ears. Just make sure that you are tightening your stitches between each needle. If you're on a circular needle, you don't have to worry about that.
That is all for today, I believe. Do you have any questions? Are you doing something crazy weird and don't even know what the right question to ask would be? Let me know in the comments, or you can email me (alexandyjATgmailDOTcom replace the uppercase words with the appropriate symbols). Remember, I'm also available to help in person if you are having trouble. Just let me know! Once we get the body done, we can start on the leaves. See you next time!
Hi everyone, I just wanted to post real quick to let you know that in the pattern I posted, there is a mistake, right in Row 1! Sheesh, can't trust me with anything! The original pattern for Row 1 said to knit until there is one stitch, and noticeable gap, and then another stitch, and knit those two together to close the gap. There are four gaps, one on each side of the two earflaps. Row 1 in my pattern should read as follows:
Row 1: k9, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k25, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k10.
This will hopefully give you the right first row. That's what I did and mine turned out fine. Let me know if any of you have any problems. Pictures tomorrow, but right now I have a date with my husband and the cats. We're watching Gone With the Wind, and everyone is very excited. Goodnight!
Good morning everyone! I finished my earflaps last night, and I am ready to cast on for the hat. Before I do so, however, I wanted to show you a couple of pictures of what your flaps might look like. Here's one looking at the right side of both flaps:
These flaps look really large for baby ears to me, but I guess it's better to have their ears covered well! The edges farthest away from the needles are my cast on edges, and you might be able to see the tails there. I cast on 7 stitches using the long tail cast on, per the pattern. Then, you need to turn your needle and start going right to left again, on the wrong side of the piece. You are going to knit the first stitch, purl to the last stitch, and then knit the last stitch. Turn your work again, and knit the first stitch, knit the front and back of the second stitch (video here), knit to the last 2 stitches, knit the front and back of the second to last stitch, and knit the last stitch. Every time you knit into the front and back of a stitch, you are adding a stitch. This means for every right side row that you do, you should be adding two stitches total. I try to make sure I am counting every once in a while so I don't miss an increase. Once you have 15 stitches on the needles, you'll be on a wrong side row. You can then purl every stitch in this row. Turn your work so you're on a right side row, and knit every stitch. Continue this until your earflap is the length that you want it. Mine are 3.25" long. Once I knit my first earflap, I set that needle aside after cutting the yarn and used another needle to knit the second earflap. You can either keep track of the rows that you knit straight on the first earflap, and then keep track on the second one so they are the same, or you can just hold them one on top of the other to make sure they're roughly the same size. :)
Here is a picture of the right side of one earflap, and the wrong side of the other:
You'll notice that the earflap on the left is showing the purl bumps on the wrong side, and the earflap on the right is showing the knit v's on the right side. I tried to make sure that my last row on the earflaps was a wrong side, or purl, row, but it doesn't really matter for our purposes. You might also be able to see that the sides of the earflaps are curling in a bit. That's okay, because each earflap is small enough that it will resist curling too much. In the pattern, I specified to leave a tail when you cut the yarn from the ball at the end of each earflap, and said that 12 inches would be long enough. That will definitely be long enough, but I made my tails between 5 and 6 inches. You want to have enough of a tail that you can securely weave in the ends, but the earflaps are getting knit right into the cast on edge, so it doesn't need to be too long.
Alternatively, if you don't want to do the earflaps, you don't have to. You can just cast on for the hat and start knitting, and once you get to the end you will have a hat with a brim that rolls, so you may want to make the body a bit longer. If you are interested in this, you can wait until I cast on for my hat and just pick up with me there.
That's about it for the earflaps. Take your time when making these, because it's possible that you're learning a couple of new things while knitting these. Let me know in the comments how you are doing, or if you have any questions. Also, like I mentioned before, I am available to help in person if you are around the Presque Isle area, so just let me know if you would like that. If you want to send me some pictures (and I would love to see any!), you can email them to me at alexandyj(at)gmail(dot)com, and let me know if you're okay with me putting them on the blog or not. Thanks for knitting with me!
You are invited to join us at the 19th Annual National Quilting Day!Garden Gate Fabrics and Sewing with Sheila have the downstairs North Room at the Presque Isle Inn and Convention Center reserved. We are starting at 9:30 am and sticking around until 3 pm.There is a ramp to get down there on the side of the building, or drive to the far end of the parking lot and walk down stairs right into the room.However, we would prefer that you to come in through the side door.The temperature of the day will dictate which entrance will be best. The entrance fee for this event will be $2.
The websites here tell of the history of National Quilting Day and there is a national project planned for the day.You may do this on your own or a group of you could do this together.
There will be tables set up for us to sit and sew for the day.You may do the project that is listed above or bring a UFO.We have demonstrations lined up.Sheila will be doing some machine quilting and making double layered dinner napkins.Alex will be demonstrating the Go Cutter and there will be a supply of them for you to buy.Sylvia has asked all of the machine quilters in the area to display their work.Garden Gate Fabrics and Rather B Quilting will be vendors at this event.We have asked for some door prizes from different companies, and we have received prizes from Quilter’s Dream and Benartex.We have games to play.One of them is LCR (Left, Center, Right). All of you can play this… Your ticket to get to play is to bring 3 fat quarters of quilt shop quality and we will start a game every time we have 10 players.It is a dice game and will last about 30 minutes.At the end of the game the winner will take all 30 of the fat quarters.This is enough to make a queen sized quilt!
We hope you can join us on this day for fun, demonstrations, and food.As a reminder, the day is Saturday, March 20, from 9:30 am to 3 pm, at the Presque Isle Inn and Convention Center, and the entrance fee is $2.See you then!
Happy Friday, everyone! I'm just going to post the hat pattern in this post, and maybe sometime in the future I'll figure out how to put it as a file on the sidebar. The following is the pattern for the baby hat:
Materials: * 100 yds of DK or worsted weight yarn.
* Double point or circular needles of the size that gets gauge (the author of the pattern uses US6, I used US8).
* Stitch marker
* Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving in ends
Abbreviations: CO=cast on K=knit P=purl Kfb=Knit front and back (increase) st=stitch k2tog=knit two stitches together
Ear Flaps:
CO 7 stitches.
Row 1: K1, P to last stitch, K1.
Row 2: K1, Kfb, K to last 2 stitches, Kfb, K1.
Repeat these two rows until there are 15 stitches on the needles.
Knit in stockinette stitch until piece measures 3.25”.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (12 inches is long enough), and leave the earflap on the needle. If using double point needles, just put that needle to the side and use another one from your set, if you’re using a circular needle, move the earflap to the middle of your cable, and work back and forth for the second earflap on your needles at the end of the cable.
Repeat these instructions for the second earflap.
Hat:
Using the cable cast on, CO 10 st on an empty dpn or your circular needle. Knit 15 st from one earflap right after your tenth cast on stitch. CO 26 st, knit 15 st from second earflap, CO 10 st. You should have 76 stitches.
Join, being VERY careful not to twist any of your stitches. If you are using a circular needle, place a marker before joining, right after your last cast on st.
Row 1: K9, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k9. This will leave 72 st.
Knit every st in the round for 25 rounds.
Leaves:
Round 26: *K1 green, K7 red, repeat from *.
Round 27: *K3 green, K5 red, repeat from *.
Round 28: *K5 green, K3 red, repeat from *.
Round 29: *K7 green, K1 red, repeat from *.
Round 30: *K7 green, K1 red, repeat from *.
Decrease for crown:
Use only the green yarn, leave the red tail hanging.
Round 31: *K6, k2tog, repeat from * (63 st left).
Round 32: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * (54 st left).
Round 33: *K4, k2tog, repeat from * (45 st left).
Round 34: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * (36 st left).
Round 35: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * (27 st left).
Round 36: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * (16 st left).
Round 37: *k2tog, repeat from * (9 st left).
Rounds 38-43: Knit every stitch (this creates the stem).
Round 44: K2tog 4 times, K1.
To finish, cut a tail from the green yarn (6 inches should do). Thread the tail into your tapestry needle, and draw the tail through the remaining 5 stitches. Pull the tail to the inside of the stem. Tie a knot around a couple of stitches to secure, and weave the tail through a few stitches. Weave in the ends, and you’re done!
There is also a link to an adult sized earflap hat on Julie's blog, here. It would appear that all she did to get an adult sized hat was go up a few needle sizes, so that's easy enough. If you want to use the needles you picked out for the yarn you bought, all you'll need to do is take the number of stitches you got per inch on your gauge swatch and cast on the number of stitches needed to get your hat circumference. You want your hat to be slightly smaller than the head you're making the hat for, so it won't fall off. For example, if you are making the hat for a head measuring 14 inches, you'll want to make the hat around 13 inches in circumference. This means that if you got 5 stitches per inch on your gauge swatch, you'll need to cast on 5 x 13 stitches, or 65 stitches. Knitting can get very mathematical, but not to worry, we can get through it! :) If you are looking at this pattern and are freaking out a little because there are a million abbreviations and words you don't know, don't worry. We'll go through them step by step. I'll be working on my earflaps today and posting about them soon, so we can get this hat going! If you want to start working on your earflaps too, here is a link to videos explaining the "kfb" stitch, which is an increase stitch. Scroll down this window until you see "KFB" on the right side of the knitted piece, and watch the video for whichever knitting style you're doing. It helps to watch the video more than once, or to do one step, pause the video, do another step, pause the video, etc.
I told you that I finished the mittens for my brother-in-law Gabe, and here is a picture of them finished:
I know they're not really exciting, since that last picture you saw of them was when they were almost finished. Since I finished these mittens, I decided to focus solely on Chelsea's scarflet and finish that. I blocked it, which was magic. I have the Vogue Knitting book, which has lots of information about pretty much anything you could ever want to know about knitting. A section of this book discusses the different ways to block a garment, and I chose to wet block the scarflet. This involved me pinning the scarflet out to the correct dimensions on my ironing board, and then spritzing it with a spray bottle until it was damp. Then, I let it sit overnight, and got up early the next morning to rescue it from the ironing board before my husband unpinned it and undid all of my blocking in order to iron his clothes for work. After rescuing it, I discovered that it was no longer curly! Before blocking, the sides curled in and touched each other, which made the scarflet look kind of funny. After wet blocking, it was lovely and flat. I felt very good about myself. Then, I just had to knit a couple more rows in order to get the button holes on the scarflet, and then sew the buttons on. Voila!
There should be a picture of the finished scarflet here, but I forgot to take one before I gave it to Chelsea, and now that I've finally finished it, it's too warm for her to wear it.
The next project I started working on was a pair of mittens for my sister's boyfriend that were supposed to be for Christmas past, but she didn't ask me to make them until after Christmas, so I feel like I'm pretty much off the hook. He has really big hands.
This is my hand on top of the first mitten. I'm a little worried now, because I don't have small hands, and I didn't realize that the mittens were quite this large. Fortunately, my husband also has really big hands, so he gets to try on everything that I make. I told him that I was very lucky to have him, since I'm a smallish person, and he's a largeish person, so between the two of us we should be able to make anything to size! He was not as excited about that prospect.
The second mitten's cuff is in progress. After I knit the second mitten, I'll knit the thumbs. I save the thumbs to do at the same time, because for whatever reason, once I get to the thumbs I'm really confused. To prevent two different times of being confused, I simply knit the thumbs one right after the other so I can get weirded out on the first thumb but know what I'm doing for the second. One time when I went to do the thumbs, I forgot whether I was supposed to knit them in the round clockwise or counter-clockwise, and ended up knitting the first thumb inside out. I'm not sure why I have so much trouble with thumbs, but maybe if I keep making mittens I'll finally figure it out.
My sister's boyfriend is a big Red Sox fan, so after the mittens are completely knit, I'll be using a Boston Red Sox graph to duplicate stitch the Boston "B" on the mittens. I'm pretty excited to see how they turn out. He knows he is getting mittens that are being made especially for him, but I'm pretty sure he hasn't been told they are going to be Red Sox. Also, I'm pretty sure he doesn't read this blog, so I thought I was probably safe to share my plan with you.
I wish I had something to show you from my sewing life. I have, in fact, been sewing. We are participating in the Maine Shop Hop, and each participating shop needs to make a sample out of the chosen line of fabric. I have been trying very hard to make samples, but each time has been, no exaggerating, an abject failure. I'm pretty okay with this, because I get a feeling in my stomach when starting a project if it's going to turn out poorly, and I pretty much just try to suppress it and plow through. So, I now have a couple of weird looking star blocks to show for it, and we have decided to do a sample from a pattern rather than from my head, and perhaps my mom will sew it, just to be safe. Pictures of sewing will come, I promise!
I hope you are all able to enjoy the sun a little bit. Hold onto hope, spring is coming!
Hi everyone! I hope you were all able to gather your materials for the knitalong. I spent the morning trying to take pictures and videos of myself making a slipknot, casting on, and knitting and purling rows for my swatch for those of you who are just learning. I'm not very good at working cameras, or technology in general, so I have made an executive decision to let it go, and point you to some excellent videos that have already been made. For one, I want to pat myself on the back for letting it go, because I have a hard time with that. Two, these videos are much much nicer than anything I could have made, because they have sound as well. Mine didn't, which actually made them kind of weird to watch. I'm used to awkward silences, but not everyone is! :)
First, I want to encourage everyone who will be doing this project along with me. Some parts will seem hard, and you may be learning a lot of new things in this project. I'm going to try to go pretty slowly, so that everyone who wants to get it can, and I want you to ask me if you have any questions at all. I'm also available to help in person, if you're around Presque Isle. I am happy to do anything I can to help anyone who needs it, so don't hesitate to ask. The main thing to remember is to go at your own pace. Mine is slow, and that's a good pace for learning. You will get less frustrated, I promise!
The website I'm going to link to is called Knitting Help. I have watched countless videos on this website to help me learn how to do new things, or remember how to do things that I've done a lot, which happens more often than not. This is an excellent resource. The Lion Brand Studio has a Youtube channel as well, which has a pretty large number of videos for knitters and crocheters. Click the following link to get to Knitting Help: www.knittinghelp.com
And click this link to get to the Lion Brand Youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/LionBrandYarn
Those links will take you to the homepage, and I'll give you a couple of specific links for things we'll need to learn.
Okay! So today we're going to do a gauge swatch! I have to confess to you that this will be the first project that I've swatched correctly (assuming I swatched correctly, of course). I hate swatching, because I think that swatching time is wasting time that I could be spending actually knitting the project! However, I have had lots of tears due to a lack of swatching, so we're going to do it for this one and get everyone into the habit.
A note for the following videos: the method I use for knitting is called the "English method," and I would find that easier for beginners. Also, I hold the yarn in my right hand between my thumb and forefinger, rather than wrapping it around several fingers like the woman in the video does. If you are just learning how to knit from these videos, they suggest the "Continental method," which is supposed to be better for tension, and possibly quicker. It will take you longer to get comfortable with it, in my opinion, but it might be better in the long run. The continental method is also suggested for left-handed knitters who have a hard time getting their right hand to do anything.
First to start our swatch, you need to make a cast on row. You can use whatever cast on method you like; I'm going to use the long-tail cast on. Here is a link for a long-tail cast on video: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on
I read somewhere that you should make the tail three times the length of your piece. Since the swatch is going to be around 4 inches, you should leave a 12 inch tail.
To find out what we are supposed to be doing for our swatch, we look at the part of the pattern that says, "Gauge." Nobody has the pattern yet, because I don't know how to put files on the sidebar yet. If you really would like to have the pattern right now, email me at alexandyj@gmail.com and I'll email it back to you. The pattern for the baby hat calls for a gauge of 19 stitches=4" in stockinette stitch. You can do this swatch for the adult hat too, since if you bought a worsted weight yarn, chances are good that the needle size specified was an 8 or 9. What you'll need to do is cast on 19 stitches, first of all. The long tail cast on creates a knit row as well as casting on, so you'll end up having to purl all the stitches when you actually begin the swatch after the cast on row. So, after you've cast on your 19 stitches, turn the work and purl every stitch. Here's a video for purling: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/purl-stitch
Make sure that when you are purling, you are holding your working yarn IN FRONT of the work, rather than IN BACK, like you would for knitting. I didn't think of this when doing ribbing for the first time, and couldn't figure out why it looked so wild. Purl every stitch on this first row.
Then, you will turn the work again. You're going to knit this row. Here's a video for knit stitch: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knit-stitch
Knit every stitch on the second row. If you look at the swatch, you can see bumps on one side, and v's on the other.
The swatch on the left has the bumps, and the swatch on the right has v's, if you can see them in this blurry picture. The side with the bumps is considered the wrong side, and when you're working this side you will purl every stitch. The side with the v's is considered the right side, and when you're working this side you will knit every stitch. This will create a fabric that looks different on both sides, called stockinette stitch. If you knit every stitch in every row, right or wrong side, you would have a fabric with all bumps. This is called garter stitch. We are going to do our swatch in stockinette stitch, so knit the right side and purl the wrong side.
You should have to do about 25 rows in order to get to four inches, counting the first purl row that you do as row 1. You can count how many rows you've done by picking one of the columns of v's, and counting each v in the column.
If you are looking at this picture, and you count one column starting with the first full knit stitch (I left out the half one that got cut off at the bottom), there are ten rows. So get to the point where you've done around 25 rows. Your swatch will be curly, that's okay. Stockinette stitch curls, so as a general rule needs to have some sort of border around it or some incorporation of purl stitches on the knit side to keep it from curling. Garter stitch does not curl at all, making it great for dishcloths, scarves, and other things that are supposed to be flat.
When your swatch is done, you can pin it to an ironing board, or another similar surface. Try as hard as you can not to stretch the swatch, since this will give you incorrect gauge. I laid the swatch on my ironing board, and smoothed it out gently in whatever place I was pinning it. I then put down my tape measure and placed a pin at the 1 inch mark, and at the 2 inch mark. I lined up the 1 inch mark with the side of one column of v's first. Then, I counted from the pin on the left to the pin on the right to see how many v's were in between them. I ended up getting 4.5 stitches per inch on this swatch, which means that my total swatch width is a little over 4 inches, and 18 stitches would have been better than 19. Sometimes half a stitch off doesn't make that much difference, like in a baby hat. However, if you are making a sweater that is, say, supposed to be 50 inches around, and the gauge calls for 5 stitches per inch and you get 4.5, for every inch that the sweater is supposed to be, you'll actually be close to an eight of an inch off. If you cast on the number of stitches called for in the pattern anyway, ignoring your gauge, your sweater would be a little more than 6 inches too small. That sounds really confusing, but hopefully it's understandable.
When measuring my gauge from the left side to the right side, my suspicions that I'm off a little bit were confirmed. My swatch is almost 4.25 inches in width, rather than 4 inches. Like I said, I'm not too worried about this, because I would rather have the hat be too big, than for me to go down a needle size or cast on less stitches and have it be too small. If you are way off on your swatch, that's okay. I had to go up two needle sizes to get this gauge from what the pattern called for, but I knew that ahead of time so didn't try to swatch with the needle size called for. I'm going to knit the hat on these needles.
There are a couple of different things you can do with your swatch as well. Some people cast the swatch off the needles (instructional videos here http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/casting-off) and keep it in a photo journal with pictures and information on the finished project, such as what yarn was used, who the project was for, etc. I think this would be really cool to do, because I've already forgotten some of the projects I've done, and it would be fun to look back and see them. Others will just keep the swatch around until the project is done, in case you need to refer back to it. Some people wash their swatch exactly how they're planning to wash the finished project, if they are not sure how the yarn will react. Some people, like myself, will unravel the swatch so the yarn can be used in the project. I've also heard of people who keep swatches sewing them together into blankets for charity, using them as potholders, or some other creative use.
I feel like I'm forgetting to tell you a lot of important information. If you would like to know more than I told you here, comment on the post and I'll get back to you. This is my first time teaching, so I'm sure I'll make lots of mistakes and will need your help! I'd also like to know if you are making this, who you are making it for, and whether or not this project will be a first for you, whether your first knitting project, your first time knitting in the round, or anything else. I'm really looking forward to this knitalong, and I hope you are too!
